Ellada: 3 Weeks in Northeastern Aegean Islands

"Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness." ~ Mark Twain

“Vacation is trivial to all of the above.” ~ me (inspired by Mark Twain)

While travelers are a different breed, vacationers are boring. The most celebrated 14th century traveler, Shams ad Din Abu-Abdullah Mohammad Ibn-e-Battuta left home at the age of 21 to go for a pilgrimage to Mecca and returned home after some 30 years. He traveled the world, as well as to Mecca. It would have been such a fantastic story had he skipped Mecca. Last few years of his life, he lived in Fez to dictate the accounts of his travels – he must have thought to himself “I’d rather be traveling”. Eric Hansen in “Motoring with Mohammad” ends up by accident in Yemen after a shipwreck. He endures a fascinating journey by foot, on donkeys and camels in the company of smugglers, tribal Arabs. Paul Theroux, on the Orient Express meets a 35-year old Italian who had sold his Moto Guzi to Travel to Pondicherry, India. That was at the height of hippie 60’s. Stuff like that doesn’t happen today. Between the two major wars, as the future appeared bleak in conflict-consumed Europe, an 11-year old Greek boy is shipped alone by his parents to America in search of work. He goes back to Greece twice: once to get himself a wife, and the final time to leave this world just as he reaches the doorstep of the house he was born in. It’s a modest home in the Pilion region of Greece with grapevines, a few olive trees, and a few rose bushes on a hill overlooking the coast of Aegean Sea from where the mythological Jason and the Argonauts sailed to Syria. There is a miniature shrine in his memory in the courtyard; villagers come to light a candle on special days of the year. Travel must be so much fun, for the sake of seeing the world and for discovering oneself. The two happen concurrently. No such luck on vacations.

We alternate our summer vacations between Pakistan and Greece, visiting places of history and intrigue. '07 was a Greece year. My boys, from their mother’s side, have roots in Greece, but nearly not 1/500 as many relatives as they do in Pakistan. When there, we select a small group of islands and island hop. On this trip we spent 3 weeks in the Northeastern Aegean. No matter the destination, Lonely Planet has always been a reliable companion. We use LP’s recommendations for places to stay, to see, particularly less-known hidden places to eat. It has never been disappointing. As weathered travelers (I mean vacationers) to this part of the world, we know what to expect - lots of walking and navigating hills and steep steps; it is important to pack right, tight and light - each with a backpack and a small rolly bag. However, my wife always manages to squeeze some of her stuff into mine. I do not understand how many pairs of shoes are necessary for a 3-week vacation? “Fifty!” she goes.

Travel, it is said, is flight and pursuit in equal parts. While vacation is 98% about getting away, no matter where one heads. For me, I hate the ‘getting there’ part, long plane rides, and boring passengers sitting next to me. However, the anticipation of getting there and freedom from mental and emotional distress from the monotony of everydayness is very satisfying. I never feel like engaging in any conversation with people sitting next to me on the plane, even when they are not family, and especially when they are. I’d rather read a good book, have a drink, and just get there. From JFK to Athens I finished “Mansion (Mayyadas Ki Marhi)” by Bhisham Sahni. The story is set in a Haveli and takes place during the fall of Sikh Raj and beginning of British rule. Fabulous read. Although we were flying to Greece, the story took me to my village in Punjab, circa 1839. I don’t know if it was the book or the booze, or perhaps the combination of the two. Looking forward to Mediterranean beaches and being away from familiar surroundings was a great feeling even by itself, but good Scotch certainly helped intensify it.

Here is a little history and touristy stuff about the islands we visited.


SAMOS

Less than an hour on a small plane from Athens, Samos, birthplace of the great philosopher and mathematician Pythagoras (famous for Pythagorean theorem) and the goddess Heera, was our first island. The island was called Parthenia (virginity) in ancient times. Heera was worshiped as goddess of fertility and not as Zeus’s wife or sister. The island is also known for the mythological luck of Polycrates, an autocrat ruler. The sanctuary of Heera built by Polycrates in the 6th century BC is one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. Only a little remains of the sanctuary, but it is worth a see. Over the centuries, Samos was ruled by many nations, from Frankish to Venetians to Persians, from Genoese to Ptolemaic. Mostly as a part of the Byzantine Empire, it fought various wars and sided with Athens. During the Ottoman, the island remained part of the Sultanate until early 20th century, and was relinquished to Greece in 1912. Despite visible influences of various foreign adventures (from architecture to customs to costumes; from cuisine to music) Samos is inherently Greek. Ancient Samos was centre of the Ionian culture. Samos is very different from other island groups, but is equally picturesque. So close to Anatolian Turkish coast to the east that one can swim to the other side (roughly 2 miles). We had planned our week in Samos to do lots of family activities, sites, etc., and still be left with plenty of time to chill on the beach under the hot Mediterranean sun, catch up on our summer readings, eat cherries, and go for a dip every half an hour in calm turquoise blue waters. My two teenage boys also love the beach. Sometimes they disappear and reappear from nowhere chattering up the local and tourist girls their age. Their basic conversational Greek is not bad, which made a lot of fun for them venturing around on their own. Because of them, we had been invited to houses for drinks. In a few years we will be invited to get lectured at. While my wife and boys wanted to spend most of the time on the beach, I wanted to see the villages, so I was given the name “beach pussy” by my family. Well, I was a beach pussy for most of our vacation, leaving my clan on the beach and driving to villages deep in the hills, some times my older boy coming along.

Like most Greek isles, Samos depends heavily on tourism. Locally produced wines are very popular throughout Greece and abroad. In addition to the main town, Vathy, there are some 10 small-sized towns and 20 odd smaller villages with population in 100s. The town of Pithagorio (yep, named after Pythagoras) is a pretty town as well as one of 3 ports, with old mansions, Turkish houses, narrow streets, open tavernas and charming cafes along the waterfront. The other towns worth visiting are Mavratzei and Marthakambos and a small village Manolatis. The beaches are mostly pebbly, but a sandy beach (Psili Ammos) is extraordinarily pretty and is the closest point between Turkey and Greece. We criss-crossed the island; stopping to pick up souvenirs, snap shots, take a dip, flipped stones in the water (my kids always beating me), and stopping for a frappe, a beer, or just to chitchat with local old ladies (“Yiayias” grandmothers). After learning that she is Greek and we are from New York, the first question the old ladies always ask my wife is “Eiste poy Didaskte Katsika sas Ellinika?” (are you teaching your sons Greek?) to which she respectfully replies, “Ne” (which means “Yes”) – no wonder the Greek culture and Greek identity has been kept pretty much like it was in the ancient ages. Proud Greeks.

While changing money at a travel agent, impulsively we decided to take a one-day diversion to go and see the ancient city of Ephesus in Turkey, since it was only an hour on the boat from Samos.

EPHESUS and KUSADASI

Kusadasi, a Turkish port city is only about an hour on boat from Samos; and Ephesus, another 15-minute bus ride. A marvelous example of Greco-Roman architecture, settled over 100s of years, the 3rd largest in the ancient world. It is an amazing place to visit, at one time being the Asia Minor capital of the Roman Empire. Ruins give a pretty good idea about the time, the main path and some of the buildings are in as good a shape as can be, particularly the ancient theater, the Temple of Adrian, and the Library of Kelsios are in great shape for a 2500 year old city. Ephesus had public latrines (open air, with holes) with flowing water, where people sat not only to take a dump but also to negotiate business deals (hence the term, “going for business”). The funniest incident was when we enter the ancient Brothel building and heard an Italian guy yelling “Casa de Amore, Casa de Amore” – that was really funny. We have never taken guided tours of any place, but this one was worth it, since we only had a few hours, and our Turkish guide did a fabulous job showing us the main parts. A whole lot remains to be seen and to be learnt.

When Mark Anthony was the governor of Ephesus, Cleopatra supposedly came there to have “tea” with him. I think she had more than just tea; I am sure she had a few cookies as well.

A walk thru the old Ottoman Bazaar of Kusadasi was fun, with carpet stores, and enticing restaurants. We bought a few souvenirs, had a drink and my wife swears that she has never before tasted such delicious Baklawa. Taking boat back to Samos, where we spent one more day before hopping to our next island.


CHIOS (XIOS) (Hee-Os)

The boat to Chios was 3-4 hours from Samos.

Other than in the main town with trendy bars, there are no hordes of Northern Europeans. The rest of the island attracts more low-key visitors looking to get away from the summer flocks of blondes and hunks. It also is a somewhat pricy island. Quite a few Greek shipping magnets come from Chios. The island is popular with Greek expats – mostly Greek Americans and Greek Australians. Many businesses in Chios are owned by expat Greeks.

Chios is famous for its fragrance, with jasmine and tulips and resin producing mastic trees (the Ottoman called it “Sakiz Adasi” – or the Resin Island). Legend has it that Chios is the birthplace of Homer. Another myth is that Chios was liberated from Karians by the King of Crete, Minois (of Minoan civilization) who introduced cultivation of vines to the island. Chios produces some of the best Greek wines. The island was first settled in the Neolithic and the Bronze ages. After a long period of foreign rule, Chios was liberated by Greeks during the Balkans wars and was united with Greece in early 20th century.

The main town is built around the Genoese fort (originally a Byzantine structure), inside of which are Turkish homes and a Turkish cemetery, which was in a total neglected state. With beautifully carved tall marble gravestones, each containing multiple names. It appeared that the Ottoman used the land conservatively to bury their dead, as the cemetery is only about 40 X 15 feet but contains hundred of names on the gravestones. The weeds and tall wild trees have taken over it, and it will be destroyed if not paid attention to soon.

Chios is a mixture of medieval villages, walled mansions, and a dozen or so small mastic villages (called Mastihohoria). The 3 main Mastic villages we visited are Pyrgi (with most unusual houses with complex geometric designs on the outside) Mesta and Olympi, medieval fortified villages. Like all of Greece, Chios has monasteries. Monasteries played an important part in preserving the Greek identity and culture over the centuries and during foreign conquests. Two in Chios we visited are the monasteries of Agios Minas, and Panagias Mersinidiou. Agios Minas was founded in the 16th century and it is associated with the massacre of 3500 women and children that were slaughtered after a failed revolution against the Ottoman. In Agios Minas a Nun gave us a little tour of the place. Bones of the dead children are displayed behind glass doors, and the church floor has burn marks where the Ottoman massacred children by pouring hot oil on them. The Nun then points outside towards Turkey, which can be seen from the Monastery and gives a pretty nasty gesture to “Turkiyas”. Panagias Mersinidiou was built in the late 19th century and the remains of one of the Patriarchs (Orthodox Pope) are kept there. In early 19th century, Ottoman did one of their worst numbers (if not the worst) by killing some 30,000 Hiots and exiling even more. In addition to relying on the generosity of the villagers and visitors, Monasteries in Greece are mostly self-sustained. The monks sell crafts and other items to keep the place running. It is always an uplifting and spiritual experience to visit a monastery or a convent. Like other men of God, Greek monks and Priests are very approachable and friendly. As a Muslim, I have always been treated with “special” attention and extra warmth by Priests, reserved generally for non-Orthodox and specifically for non-Christians. After learning that I am married to an Orthodox, the amount of blessings are multiplied often with offers of sharing a drink, and of course a plug for raising our kids as Orthodox to secure a place in paradise, in a room right next to Christos himself.

In Chios town, the Byzantine museum and adjacent mosque (Mecidiye) is worth a visit, except, fortunately, this time it was closed for repair and restoration work. I say fortunately, because there are many historic monuments that are in total state of inattention, particularly a few of the Ottoman monuments. The cemetery next to the mosque is an amazing place, but I could only see it from a distance since it was closed for restoration work. It has gravestones of Jews, Armenians, Turkish, Genovese, - a testament to the varied populations of Chios over the centuries.

A small village Vrontados is also not to be missed, where one can sit on the stone chair (Deskalopatra) from which Homer supposedly recited his epic versus to his admiring followers. Just the thought of Homer deliver to a crowd is enough to get me all excited. As I closed my eyes sitting on Deskalopatra imagining hearing Homer speaking to me (“I lived in the time of Achilles, I lived in the time of Hector” & “and so the Trojans buried Hector, breaker of Horses”). I sat on the stone until my wife and kids threatened to leave me there. Some people have no appreciation for imagination. Unwillingly, I get up, but not before delivering a juiciest Punjabi curse with required vigor and appropriate gesture to my wife and kids. I hope I made Homer proud.


LESVOS (LESBOS) – also called MYTILINI

We most certainly saved the best for last. Lonely Planet describes this island as one of the “most interesting: scenically, culturally, and gastronomically” – that I found to be an accurate description during our short one-week stay there. We arrived by boat in Mytilini, the capital of Lesvos from Chios, about 3-hour boat ride. A 10-minute taxi ride from the port, our hotel exceeded all my expectations. Quite luxurious and imposing 19th century mansion, tastefully decorated rooms with original details and unbelievable views. Only a few feet from the most beautiful beach. It’s not bad to get indulged in luxury once in a while on daily basis. According to Homer, Achilles buried Palamides (a fierce fighter of the of the Trojan War) in Lesvos. It is a volcanic island and there are many myths to its origin. Some say it was named after the son-in-law of Makaras Amazonas (the first settler on the island). Makaras had five daughters and he gave the island as a dowry to his son-in-law. How so thoughtful! Little villages on the Island are named after Makaras’s daughters. The history of Lesvos is pretty much like that of Samos, it had seen many conquests, and it sided with Alexandros during the Peloponnesian wars. After his death, the island had Ptolemaic and Roman rule for some time. In recent history, a long Ottoman rule started seeing its decline after the Turkish Russian war of the late 19th century, finally, Lesvos gained independence from Turks and joined Greece. Germans occupied it briefly during the WW2. Lesvians are very traditional. Nobel laureate Odysseus Elytis was from there. Among many of his great works is ‘Axion Esti’ (It is Worthy) with music composed by Mikis Theodorakis, another great Greek. The novelist Stratis Myrivilis is also native to Lesvos. Saphos, born around 630 BC, known for her homoerotic poetry, is perhaps the best known progny of Lesvos. The term “Lesbian” is derived from the name of the island. There is a small part of the island where lesbians go, but Lesvos being a Mecca for lesbians is only a myth.

If you admire medieval and Ottoman architecture, you will love Lesvos. The island is mostly hilly (although Greeks describe it as “mountainous”). I always take an issue with anyone referring to 1000-meter hills as mountains. These are not “Mountains”. “Mountains” are in Pakistan. My this lack of humility pisses my wife off. “Dad, we know your country has the highest mountains, but you don’t have to be an asshole about it,” my younger son said to me while blinking his eye. To hear that made my wife’s day. Lesvos is hilly. It produces top quality Ouzo (liquor) from its olive orchids. There is scattered vegetation and it is the 3rd biggest of Greek Isles, after Crete and Evia. Population roughly a 100,000 but growing many fold during the tourist season.

There are many villages worth a visit, but Mithimna (Molyvos is the ancient name of the town) is the one not to be missed. It has red brick houses, cobbled alleyways and Turkish fountains. Until the island was relinquished to Greece, it had a significant Muslim population. We spent a few hours in Mithimna. The most interesting sight was the entrance to the Venetian castle with an Islamic arched gate and Kalima engraved on a white marble, trying to give impression that the fort was built by the Ottoman. Who were they trying to kid?

I had read in many places about a mosque in Messagros with an unusual minaret. After dropping my clan at the beach on the Geras Gulf, I drove towards Messagros. When I reached near the village, there was an imposing shining silver dome with a square minaret on the side. From a distance, I was convinced that that was that mosque, but it turned out to be a church. I drove around and by accident ended up at a site where the mosque with an unusual minaret stood. Well, I was completely disgusted to see the state of the mosque. It was deteriorated beyond recognition, and there were weeds and shrubs 4 feet high in the courtyard, the Mimber of the mosque was totally ruined and 1 of the 2 minarets had fallen down due to harsh weather and neglect or perhaps an earthquake. The outside was used by animals to relieve themselves. I felt so disgusted that I vomited. This should never happen. This was the second time I had seen such a blatant disrespect of a religious place as well as an important historical one. The other was the Ottoman cemetery inside the Genoese fort in Chios.

Right outside the mosque a woman invited me into her restaurant, that was being renovated, it had a Theoplilus painted mural (about 10 foot by 10 foot) on the wall. It would have been a treat, but I couldn’t enjoy it, as I was feeling pretty shitty. I mentioned my disgust to her about the mosque being in such a sad state, and she explained that not many come this way, and the town planning has yet to come and clean up the place, she also mentioned about a couple of Byzantine churches being in a terrible state, but I didn’t buy that. And oh, the unusual part about the minaret is that it had a metal Crescent and a Cross inside the Crescent on top. I have never before seen a cross atop a mosque minaret.

Most visitors are taken by the physical beauty of Greece and never bother to look beyond the Acropolis and antiquities; only a few realize that there is so much more to Greece, the layers of complexity in its islands is more enchanting than the beautiful beaches and centuries old sanctuaries. There are tons of little reminders in tiny villages of the eras gone by. One would not envision seeing such important modern work, for example, Circus series of Marc Chagall in a museum of a patron of the arts (Eleffteriadis Teriade, a native of Lesvos) in a small place as Mytilini. In there are important works of Picasso, Matisse, among other modern giants. Teriade is also credited with discovering the most celebrated Greek painter Theoplilus, and built a museum dedicated solely to him. These two museums are must-see places if you visit Lesvos. Theoplilus made a living by going all over Greece and painting murals inside restaurants for free meals in return. His work is fairly simple; he used very vibrant colors to depict village life.

I love Greek cuisine, never reluctant to try unfamiliar stuff. However, sticking mostly to Suvliki, and char grilled seafood with breads dipped in olive oil, and scrumptious tomato, cukes and feta cheese salad (peasant salad or ‘Horiatiki’). Food in Greece is out of this world, or may be after a busy day, one gets so tired that any food will appeal. In all honesty, Greek food is delicious, nutritious and non-fatty, as olive oil is the only oil used in cooking. Greece makes good beers; my favorite is Mythos, a pretty decent lager. Greek wines tend to be either very dry or very sweet. There is always Ouzo. Lesvos produces the best olive oil, and Ladotyri is considered among the best of Greek goat milk cheeses. My older son, who worships Satan, refused to eat Feta or any other Goat cheese, explaining that Goats are sacred, because they refuse to be like Sheep who are obedient; therefore, they need to be respected. (The truth is that he is a picky eater, and he made that entire BS up).

These isles can be done on the cheap for students and those with limited travel finances. There are budget hotels as well as locals offering room (Domatia) and board in their houses during the tourist season. If you are visiting alone and not averse to sharing a room with another student or a single person, that can be a very reasonable option, as you only need a place to crash at the end of a long and exhausting day. Food is generally inexpensive – a decent meal for under 10-dollars. As a student I remember buying a loaf of bread, some cheese, a few tomatoes and a bottle of wine – all for under 10-dollars. Car rental is reasonable. Moped rental is another good option to get around. Only big isles have some public transportation, while smaller ones don’t. Taxis or rented cars/motos are the only way to get around. Greeks are very warm, friendly, loud, extremely expressive, and hospitable. During my many visits, I have never felt bored there. As an avid history and art lover, I am very attracted to its artistic and rich ancient historic, mythological and archaeological side, but I am equally attracted to its hedonistic and wild side and every time I visit, I want to go back, again and again. First few visits, I felt like a tourist, the next few I felt a little better than just a tourist, now I feel like I am visiting home.

Coming back, at Athens airport a 5-year-old boy is with his Yiayia and Pappou (grandpa) to be put on a plane to Atlanta. He asks his Yiayia “are you coming with me to our house in America?” “No” replies Yiayia “you now go back to Mamma, you have been with me for 2 months and that’s enough!” The boy is handed over to airline crew and I later see the Yiayia and Pappou with sad faces and held-back tears.

This was, as always, a wonderful 3-week vacation on 3 beautiful islands with 3 of my most favorite and most important people in my life.

The 11-year old boy was my wife’s grandpa. Pappou Vlasios.