Silk Route

When we first planned our seven days trip to Hunza-Gilgit, I was looking forward to it with much curiosity. I was quite enthusiastic. It was a great experience I must admit, if I exclude the problems we faced.
We left around 5:00 am on the 1st of July. It was a small coaster, well atleast for 26 people, it proved to be small, and a long journey lay ahead of us. I was prepared for the consequences.

Our first stop was in Kharian, we had tea break there. As it was a drivers’ hotel and I suffered from food-poisoning right before this trip had started, so I was a bit careful. I preferred coke over the puri-channa breakfast. It had started to drizzle and the scene was quite beautiful to watch while having tea. After half an hour, we resumed our journey.

Our next stop was in Wah, Rawalpindi, to visit "Bagh’e mughliat". There was a beautiful pond, and remains of a "bara-dari", that have been discovered recently. It was quite a sight to watch people diving, swimming and bathing.
The small village beside, boasts of a small palace too. But we were not allowed to enter the palace, well, not without some cajoling. It looked more like an old haveli to me. We were not allowed to visit the residential area, so may be if we had visited it properly it would have impressed me more.
We also visited the "Panja-Saab" (Hasan Abdal) where Sikhs come for the annual yaatra from all over the world.

You must take off your shoes before entering. You can see the names of those who have donated for the gurduwara and wished there contribution to be known written over the stairs. There is a pond where the Sikhs take bath before they touch the Panja Saab. We were told there that according to the Sikh religion, the Granth Saab is not a book. Granth Saab is living and takes rests and hears and all.

After the Sikhs finished their prayers, they gave us offering (prasat). When we asked for the ’karas’ they told us that they are only for those who come for yaatra. Some people were there for security, one of them told us that this place is full of "khufia police", as he put it. He refused to go inside the gurduwara saying, "I’m a muslim, why should I go inside?" I tried to assure him that I’m also a muslim and not a bad one either, but he still looked doubtful.

That night we stayed in Abottabad and dined in the Mona Lisa restaurant. The next day we had to travel for almost 20 hours. It is almost a 16 hours drive from Abbotabad to Gilgit, but our driver was a bit too careful so we had no
other choice but to suffer. Once in Gilgit, we just rushed to our rooms, thankGod that the hotel was pretty good.

The first thing I had was a shower. It was quite late and my friends were sleeping so I stood outside for a while with a friend, waiting for my hair to dry a bit. The watchman came to us and said ’Bibi, go inside it is not allowed to stay outside the rooms after mid-night." Well, it was the first restriction of its kind that I had heard of. We obeyed.

To reach Hunza one can either fly on a fokker from islamabad to gilgit,or get onto the Karakoram Highway near Taxila and drive all the way to hunza Valley(which can take almost 12 hours).The weather and visibility have to be perfect for the planes to negotiate between the high mountains and land in gilgit Valley safely.Gilgit itself is a rather unimpressive town,barren mountain and in summer very hot.That’s what we experienced on our way to gilgit coz it was too hot, especially in Chalas where we stayed for breakfast too. I jumped out of the coaster for a breath of fresh air but we were told that people there do not like girls to roam about without wearing veils. So we had to cover our heads.In the hotel where we had breakfast, there was no seperate ladies’ washroom,as women do not visit the common hotels there.
The 2 hour drive from gilgit to hunza on the karakoram Highway is spectacular.The Karakoram Highway runs through Hunza vaaley and up into the Khunjerab Pass - at 4733m,the highest paved border in the world.
Then came the most beautiful part. You could tell by the fresh fragrance in the air that Hunza is very near. The fresh air welcomed us. I was more than rejoiced, the sourroundings make you feel happy. As the snow covered
mountain peaks come closer, your excitement mounts. There is a little turn,the road a bit further ahead, and then, you stand silent, watching the graceful Rakaposhi.

We spent more time there than we had planned, taking photographs. But it could never be enough. The beautiful scenery provided an excellent backdrop.

A bit too soon, we had to leave as it was getting darker. There was still an hour’s journey ahead of us. The first thing I saw in the dark, when we arrived, was the Darbar hotel of the Mir’s.

Being a student of architecture, I was more than enchanted by its beauty. It stood there luminous and still. You can’t help feeling the calm and the grandeur which envelopes you when you look up at it.Since it’s opening in 1996,almost 90 percent of the tourists who have stayed at the Darbar hunza have been from overseas.(kindaa expensive for domestic visitors).
I was quite unhappy with the room we got in the rest house. After you have seen Darbar hotel, it is more than a pity to stay in those smelly rooms but we had no other choice. But it remains as a stain on the pleasant memories of the whole trip for me. My room was downstairs, some 40 or more stairs below. There was no fence to border the stairs which faced the busy road.Whatever little privacy we had was provided by the darkness. I stood there for quite a long time. The enchanting sound of the river beside the hotel, soothed my nerves. As we walked outside, a clear sound of "daff"
caught our attention. I felt as if Icould keep walking forever.

The water was certainly not drinkable. I couldn’t force myself even to brush my teeth or take a shower there. We just used mineral water for that.
During the day there’s plenty to do.In karimabad,one can stroll in the bazaar where local hadicrafts and silks and porcelain from china are on sale,or go for an hour long guided tour of the Baltit fort(the main tourist destination).
We walked to the Baltit Fort shortly after breakfast. On our way, we walked into some shops and gave up hope of buying something worthwhile after a few seconds only. Being students, we could only window shop there. The fare on sale is too expensive and the shopkeepers never bargain, I guess they don’t need to. The visitors were mostly foreigners.

We were told about the history of the Baltit Fort by the curator. His style made it quite interesting. Inside the Fort, photography is not allowed. We were told that the flashlight from the cameras reduces the age of the wood.
Baltit Fort has been preserved by Prince Karim Agha Khan without altering the ancient outlook. And it is an appreciable effort. Passing the kitchen, and the jail, we entered the conference room where the late kings used to have confidential meetings. As we were students, we were shown the slides of the late Mirs, all the recorded history of Baltit in pictures.The person in charge there was the grandson of the late wazir of Mir Sadiq Khan.

There’s a lot more to know about Baltit but I better tell you about the more reliable source. Those who are interested can visit this site, http://www.spark-dir.com/baltit.Then one can hire a jeep to visit the lesser known Altit Fort,also located in valley,or visit the more remote Nagar Valley next door and the nearby village of Gulmit.

We walked all the way from Baltit to Altit fort. And it was quite a long walk.Thanks to the favourable weather, it was made quite pleasant. Altit fort, or rather, the remains of Altit fort have not been preserved like the Baltit fort.

But whatever remains is dutifully taken care of by the local inhabitants. We were not allowed to visit the Ismaili mosque as only the Ismailies can enter there.

We wanted to visit the current residences of Mir’s. But as we had no prior knowledge of it and hence no appointment, we decided not to take the risk.
After Altit fort we walked to the Ganesh village, of course after having lunch. I ordered Hunza’s particular dishEchup shurruE as the cook told me. Hunza pizza, two chapaties rolled with a filling of chicken and vegetables. It was the
most delicious thing I remember eating in Hunza. Thanks to Badakhshan Hotel.

Ganesh village is hard to describe. To appreciate its beauty, one must walk in its streets. I sat in the courtyard with my eyes closed for a long while. It was
so peaceful. The pond mirrored the sorroudings, and the walls mirrored the rippling reflection back. It felt as if the walls were also moving in waves.
That night, a folk music and dance session was arranged for us. It couldn’t have been better. Sipping our cups of coffee by the fire, surrounded by beautiful music, our faces were lit with unmatchable joy and satisfaction.You don’t need anything more to enjoy.

I must mention one thing here. If you ever go to Hunza, do not forget to wash your hair at least once with the water of the Hunza River. Though it looks muddy, it works like an excellent conditioner. All of us were amazed
by its magical effect. Our hair had never felt softer, shinier and cleaner.
There are also many lakes and ice caves that can be explored.The khunjerab Pass is only a 3-hour journey from Hunza and with the proper domentation,one can easily make the way to China.

We could not visit Khunjrab because of a landslide and I regret that immensely. But we did go to Sost, the last city of Pakistan on the Pak-Chinese border. It was a hot day in Sost, but the food was good.

We made our way back from Sost to Gilgit. Then the next day we came to Abbotabad and after visiting Ilyasi Mosque there, we returned to a rain lashed Islamabad.

When we reached Lahore, our minds were filled with pleasant memories, and hearts with goodwill towards the people of Hunza.The people of Hunza are very open minded and progressive,the 70,000 citizens of the valley also enjoys one of the highest literacy rates(for both men and women)in the region.

I have never met nicer people. May be I shall visit Hunza again, but first I must visit every single place of Pakistan.