A Taste of Lahore

Commenting on Lahore has become easier since the last visit. It is not unlike Jaipur in India with a very rich history, a newfound urban cleanliness and much more to attract tourists. The reason for mentioning Jaipur here is only in the realm of my recent trip and tourism, as both cities are rich in gates and forts as both can boast of an attractive “Sheesh Mahal” or palace of mirrors. And while Jaipur has the edge in its pink hues, Lahore is by far, in my opinion the culinary superior of the two. It may not even be too radical a notion to write here that in all of South Asia, the cuisine of Lahore and the Lahori spirit is difficult to beat.

After landing in Lahore, at one of the most beautiful airports around today, I had the opportunity to attend a wedding about four hours after arrival. And since lunch in Delhi was a big affair, the officially forced frugality at weddings in Pakistan was quite welcome, as bowls of chicken corn soup was all that was served. Good soup though!

The next day was quite an eye opener. “Food Street” is on every tourist’s mind in Lahore these days and the relatives of my significant other did not disappoint that evening, as the Gawalmandi Food Street was our destination. And if you like to see the festive side of Punjabi culture, this is the place to be on any evening. And for food, this place could even be described as heavenly.

It is difficult to remember exactly where we sat, because you can literally order anything from anywhere on this cordoned off street (only foot traffic is allowed). Some Europeans, Indians and possibly Americans were present here, along with Lahore’s local light hearted “Zinda Dil’s”

As the A through Z of Punjabi-Pakistani food was appearing before us, fresh from the karahis, from the barbeque and out of the tandoors, one could only consume slowly and try to remain calm. The Lahori Charga was excellent, the Lassi superb and the Nan’s worth remembering. But since I stayed away from the Nihari-Paya this time around to revisit them elsewhere on another night, I was reluctant to be too adventurous in the salan areas. But that all changed when I had the “Chinioti Kunnah Gosht” dish for the first time ever. It was just superb. My main food discovery after all these years away from Pakistan has to be the Kunnah (Gosht or Paya) during this trip.

Day three was light home food for lunch. We attended an engagement party and dinner at the Mei Kong Chinese restaurant in Lahore’s suburbia. But no Chinese food was served only memorable Pakistani food. A Kashmiri Harisa (a Haleem-Like Dish) was tried the next morning along with Kheer for desert.

Lunch was at Freddy’s Café in Gulberg on Day 4, with friends who had returned from America. Freddy’s wins for modern ambiance and California Style Cuisine in Lahore. The Mexican food here is very popular (Mexican food in Lahore?) along with Afghani dishes, Thai food and some very American Steaks.

I was running out of time in Lahore so the night before leaving, a trip to the Badshahi Mosque area was mandatory. And one cannot leave Lahore without eating at Fazal Haq’s Sri Payay ( aka Phajje’s) and visiting one of the most interesting restaurants in the city called Coocos’s Den.

Cooco’s Den in Lahore’s previously infamous Diamond Market is a must see for the foreign tourist. One cannot initially decide whether to go there for the food or Iqbal Hussain’s paintings or just the view. All three would be a good guess. Too bad that I had to go there after eating at Phajje’s, but walking up all those stairs (not recommended for the elderly) can by itself digest a great deal of any consumed food. Cooco’s is very interesting. Artist Iqbal Hussain has spent over three decades making local people the subject of his paintings displayed here. The food I’ve heard is good, especially the Handi Kebab’s, but the nighttime view from the rooftop of the Badshahi Mosque is just out of this world. Pakistani and South-Asian Americans should not miss it.

Lahore has succeeded in attracting many more admirers now beyond just the returning Lahoris. It is turning out to be that attractive window which Pakistanis can market globally. History and food converge very well on Lahore, to the delight of any outside observer. The place has changed a great deal since the days I launched paper airplanes from the 7th floor of WAPDA House as a kid. But Karachi beckons and the final stop on this journey remains.