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Ashura

Posted: Jul 1, 2003 Tue 11:27 am     Views: 3358    Interacts: 15

If there was one night I had to pick to invite a tourist over to this city, this would be it. Certain parts of the city, particularly Saddar, pictured here, take on an almost carnival atmosphere despite it being a night of religious solemnity-- at least for the Shi`a community.


Elaborately lit taazias, mobile shrines paying homage to the martyred Hazrat Ali, lead processions of impassioned mourners while bands of young men and boys show their bravado in acts of willing flagellation. A spectacle of the joyous celebration of mourning, ths night is not without colour--sometimes garish-- and an enigma all its own. In some areas, blades and knives replace whips, and devotion is measured, or at least professed, in terms of blood stains on one`s kameez. But what this contributor finds most curious is the active presence of Hindus in this event-- not so much in their commercial involvement, setting up footpath stalls selling play swords, machetes, an assortment of percussion instruments and wind and clay toys.


What`s most puzzling is their place at the head of the taazia processions, in their Sunday best, men and women alike. Indeed, there is a cerain surreality to it all, which I can not claim to have begun to capture in these pictures. But I hope the viewer will find them interesting in their own right.I used a Fujifilm S602 to take these shots. In most cases, I let the camera`s program feature handle the exposure setting and aperture speed.

Colour in the WindColour in the Wind Sherbat at SabeelSherbat at Sabeel taaziataazia Whipping up some colourWhipping up some colour Bird`s EyeBird`s Eye Niaz nightNiaz night Boys` night outBoys` night out 10th, and all`s well10th, and all`s well DeyghDeygh Room for allRoom for all Off to the seaOff to the sea
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Latest comments
Posted by PM on Saturday July 12, 2003 07:57 am
qambar, khamkhwa,
Thanks for the pointing out the descepencies and providing clarifications. Will make corrections as soon as am back in Karachi, where, unlike here in Sawat, one doesn’t need to go on a tea break while waiting for a page to open :)
Glad y’all liked the pics, folks. Stay tuned... Sawat has some amazing landscapes...
PM
P.S. Chowkstaff: "Somebody Somehwere"?!?
Posted by Qambar on Tuesday July 8, 2003 10:40 pm
Some discrepanices.

Artworks 1 and 2 could very well be part of the Sunni Muslim Juloos that takes part on the night preceeding Ashura. A sizable portion of Karachi’s Sunni Muslims also participate in Niaz/Sabeel activities and are especially active in the Saadat-e-Amroha Juloos on the afternoon of the 8th of Muhurrum. On the night of the 9th, the colourful Sunni Juloos precedes the Shiite procession.

Hindus, especially in India, take an active part in the mourning procession for Imam Hussain and his group of martyrs. Besides taking part in the procession, the Hindu contribution to Marsiya has been significant.

The procession has universal aspects and evokes Imam Husain’s timeless sacrifice in the face of tyrany.

Posted by Radhika on Tuesday July 8, 2003 07:01 pm
nice pictures.
I esp liked the 10th pic titled "All’s well" with a huge church in the background.
Posted by smjafry on Tuesday July 8, 2003 01:07 pm
beautiful images. very nostalgic.
Posted by veeresh on Monday July 7, 2003 11:19 pm
Tazias in Delhi are buried, quiet spot called "Karbala". (Behind Jorbagh, off Lodi Road, closer to the Delhi Avoiding Line and Safdarjung runway 10 side) There is usually big police bundobast because there is some amount of infighting on positions within the procession as well as show of tempers by the "leaders". Also, while beating themselves they often end up hurting others and that also causes all sorts of uproar. One method is to instersperse each group with a shaadi vala type band playing old soulful tunes.

From this description, I understand that tazias in Karachi are immersed?

I agree with Farzana, tazias seem to be less colourful here. The overwhelming theme is a particular bright shade of green. Even the tube lights and petromax are covered to give out a lurid green light.
Posted by khamkhwa. on Monday July 7, 2003 09:36 pm
[paying homage to the martyred Hazrat Ali]

...am surprised no one noticed this discrepancy. the ashura pays homage to the martyrs of karbala starting with hussain as the eldest and asghar, the youngest of a total of 72 killed without food and water at the banks of river euphrates...........
Posted by Pardaisi on Monday July 7, 2003 12:41 pm
#1

It is not difficult for us to spot Indian in US. I would say same is true for Pakistanis spotting Hindus in Pakistan. Also, distinct choice of clothing and hair style.
9 and 10 Moharam is public holiday in Pakistan - Yes, English newspapers covers Moharam.

Like a cliche in America that the media is owned by Jews, the same is true for Shia’s in Pakistan.

#3

Biryani, Qorma (with taftan), Zarda etc. Ymmmm.....

#5

Ganpathy festival - yes I would agree to some extent, It is colorful.
Posted by FarzanaVersey on Monday July 7, 2003 11:24 am
Nice look at an event that at least I have associated more with its prior breast-beating. I liked the composition of ’deygh’...and ’off to the sea...’...I have never seen such colourful tazias in Mumbai. Reminded me of the Ganpathy festival here!
Posted by Manophd on Monday July 7, 2003 10:47 am
Nice pics.Reminds me of a great sacrifice by our Prophet’s(PBUH)grand children.How sad,but,worth memorable this is.
Posted by jay on Monday July 7, 2003 02:26 am
The photos are good, and what does those pots contain.
Posted by PM on Monday July 7, 2003 12:58 am
Veeresh,
Yeah, these pics are of Karachi. I thought I had mentioned the city in the subtilte, put apparently there are gremlins in the machine.
How does one tell Hindus from Muslims in this instance? Well, they dress kinda differently, for one. And wear a lot of them tikka thingies. Also, I used to have a Hindu friend many moons ago, who’d take his rightful place at the head of the taazia processions on the night of 9th Muharram, and subject himself to all manner of self laceration on the 10th afternoon, when the big boys with serious toys show what they’re made of. Go fig!
Glad you liked the pics, and that they showed a different face of this city. Stay tuned. I promise more and better!
PM
Posted by veeresh on Sunday July 6, 2003 11:43 pm
That’s interesting, local Hindus given pride of place in front of the Tazias in Saddar (Karachi??)?

Genuine interest queries.

a) How do you make out they are Hindus?
b) Does this get publicity in the English language media in Pakistan?

On a similar note, the trek into Amarnath as well as into Vaishno Devi are commercially controlled by the local Muslims, who also join the festivities.

Somehow this doesn’t get much English language media in India, too.

Thank you for the photographs. All we get to see of Pakistan, usually, by way of photographs, is when somebody shoots or explodes somebody else.

Posted by semipreciousme on Sunday July 6, 2003 07:50 pm
...great stuff...throbbing, vibrant...loved niaz night...
Posted by Azure on Sunday July 6, 2003 01:49 pm
Very nice. Enjoyed going through all of the pictures.
Posted by Withnail on Saturday July 5, 2003 11:48 pm
Top-notch. Really liked the last one. The blur adds a nice effect.

PM

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