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The weather is getting warm ushering in another season for those on the look out for excursions, climbing and trekking. Mountains are slowly allowing that spread of profound green to take over while the indenting snow line recedes. Chirping of the birds and blossoming of the wild flowers are rendering colour and life to the landscape that had surrendered to a virtual death with the advent of the last winter. Water courses and springs are flowing again and the shepherds are migrating back to their summer dwellings.
The relatively low altitude resorts are the first ones to embrace the changing hues of life and attract more of tourism and interest at the start of the season. A three to four day break is all that is required to plan out an excursion or a trip to such areas.
Friday sandwiched between a public holiday and a weekend!!! Start of May, soaring temperatures, a dry spell, melting glaciers and rising passion …….What more could we ask for? A perfect recipe to plan the hike! It was time to lax our muscles and accomplish the so called “warm up” trek once more to get ourselves in shape for the more adventures to follow for the rest of the season. The weather, timing and the duration all looked promising! So this is exactly what we were doing during that long weekend………
Stuffing our rucksacks with a tent, sleeping bags, water proof jackets, food, medicines and other necessities we hit that mind blowing trail that runs from Thandiani, a peak near Abottabbad to Nathiagali.
It is a 39 kilometers long course that serpentines through the most scenic landscapes of “Galliyat”. Thick forest cover, murmuring water falls and springs, lush green slopes and pastures, occasional snow covered terrains are the treasures that attract many to explore that magical trail that runs between relatively low altitudes of 6,500ft. to 9,500 ft above sea level. Availability of a couple of amazing camping options coupled with the warmth and hospitality of the extremely poor and underprivileged but highly magnanimous natives add to the natural charm of the area.
Commencing the hike form the Thandiani side, a mountain top known for its thick forests and a TV booster situated at an altitude of 8800 ft above sea level, the path bisects the thick pine forests and descends quickly unraveling the beauty of the trail. Natural to the core, isolated, extremely green and peaceful, the aura of the place enchants every soul around. Wild birds and plants augment the rustic appeal of the trek. With lowering altitude, one can witness more mud or wood houses and villages across the distant mountains. The leveled corn and wheat fields are laid in spectacular formation simulating a flight of stairs in contrast to the pyramidal rise of cliffs or mountains. Winding along the face of the mountain, the trek unfolds a picturesque landscape of a series of snow clad peaks partially hiding one after the other as if laid in a file. Sauntering along and looking upon those distant heights, one catches the glimpse of the panorama that would unleash with its immense glare during the next couple of days. The view is now more open and broad. A walk through the widening valley leads to the village of “Biran Galee”. Located at quite a distance from the road, the place is accessible only by means of jeeps otherwise. With one of the very few places having some population, a school, a small basic utility store and a forest bungalow, Biran Galee is a potential camping spot.
Biran Galee is in all probability the lowest point and the most convenient location along the trek. From thereon the hike becomes more adventurous and fun but serious at the same time. While the Thandiani booster and tower are visible at imposing height behind us, the trail ascends steeply up the hills. A continous uphill hike leads to a beautiful water fall and big ferocious water course flowing aggressively down the steep hills. Water is extremely cold and refreshing and helps a great deal in revitalizing the lost energy. The trek winds up and swirls between the hills passing though the dense jungle. A gradual but continous uphill spiral helps you attain all the lost altitude. The view keeps changing from narrow vistas and gorges to a stunning spectacle of the lush green valleys and mountains. Chances of stumbling upon snow shields on the trek and finding snow covered spots elsewhere are pretty high during the early summer (by mid to late May).
Inching slowly up and encountering a couple of steep climbs, the skyline approaches finally. Looking deep down into the valleys on both sides while standing at that elevated point is simply amazing! From that lofty point on, the trail more or less straightens as the walk continues at or close to the skyline. The green pastures on the top of the hills blossom with lovely wild flowers during the summer months and rainy season. A hike through the dense forests continues until one approaches the fifteen hundred year old tree, proudly marked by the forest department, standing tall and healthy in the midst of the forest along the trek approaching the depleted forest bungalow at “Dagri”.
Dagri is another place that offers a potential camping option. The stone walls of the forest bungalows both at Dagri and Biran Galee have given in to the devastating earthquake shocks of Oct ’05. The structures are just holding on precariously and becoming more dangerous with each passing day. Availability of the water is another serious problem for those camping at Dagri as the nearest water source is located at a walk of fifteen minutes while the rain water storage tank at Dagri got dysfunctional after the earthquake.
Located amidst thick jungle and close to the mountain top, Dagri offers the most captivating of the views from a much elevated place with a series of undulating hills and mountains surrounding the broad and narrow valleys. The prominent landmarks of the city of Abbottabad can be seen at a distance on a clear day. But can you ever forget the most awesome sunset of your life? Yes…..If you can ever view that orange blaze go down slowly and then lingering on spreading the colourful hue all over the green breathtaking landscape!
Following the Dagri, the hike becomes even more remarkable. There is exuberant growth and very steep falls along the thin path. The beautiful dry fallen leaves make the passage somewhat slippery. An incredible wide aerial view of the mountains and valleys moves along as the path leads to the point of final strive.
A steep climb up the hill starts it all over again. Passing through the thick thorny bushes and meandering every now and then the trail leads to a wide plain. Gaining altitude and approaching the tree line, the terrain becomes grassy while the forest cover thins out enormously. On a bright sunny day with the sun beating down, the hike becomes harder and may cause severe sun burns and sweating. Walking on that plateau, one can see the hill resort of Nathiagali; the final destination! But there is still more to come. A stiff steep climb mostly through the snow clad slippery path if you happen to hike before June and leading up to the most elevated point of the hike “Miran Jani” before you can descend to Nathiagali.
Miran Jani peak is the highest point of the entire mountainous terrain stretching from Murree to Thandiani collectively referred to as Galliyat. Miran Jani affords the immaculate and most absorbing bird’s eye view of the entire region that ranges from the lofty snow clad peaks of Kaghan and Kashmir to the towers of Murree and the TV booster of Thandiani to low lying valleys. It overlooks stunning Nathiagali with colourful rooftops and pastures distinctly visible.
A thin gravel trail descends steeply down and disappears into the pine forests. The slope is continous but its gradient reduces gradually. It infringes astounding pastures and flower fields before terminating at Nathiagali bringing this amazing trek to an end.
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Delirium
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